Red Drum Also called a channel bass, the red drum’s scientific name is sciaenops ocellatus. In the Gulf of Mexico it is known as redfish. It is a handsome fish easily identified by the black dot near the tail. Its color ranges from brown to a coppery red

Introduction

Redfish are found throughout the estuary and near-shore waters of the Gulf Coast. In Florida waters, the life span of a redfish may exceed 25 years. For the first four to six years of life, redfish live in the inshore estuaries. Upon attaining a length of roughly 30 inches, they migrate out of the estuaries and join the near-shore spawning population. In general, Florida redfish are not long-distance travelers and tend to remain in the same geographic area in which they were spawned. In tagging studies, 50% to 85% were recaptured within six miles of their original release site.

Redfish, especially the juvenile fish less than four to six years old, frequent shallow flats where they feed on shrimp, crabs, and minnows. These juvenile fish are an excellent target for medium-weight fly tackle and for light-weight spinning tackle. The preferred method is to sight-fish for these juvenile fish using a shallow-draft, flats-boat equipped with a rear poling platform.

Redfish: Characteristics and Behavior

Redfish are reddish-brown on the back, fading to white below. While most redfish have one distinctive black spot at the base of the tail, some have several spots. The body is elongated and thick, with a gently arched back and sloping head. Redfish have two dorsal fins; the front fin has sharp spines and the back dorsal fin has soft rays resembling a flat-top haircut. The tail is broad and either flat at the end or slightly concave. The long pectoral, or side, fins are the color of rust. When actively feeding, the rear edge of the tail is a silvery-blue color. The body color varies according to where the fish lives. Over a sand environment, the fish tend to be a light silver color. Over a grass bottom, typical of mos areas in St. Andrew Bay, the fish tend to be of a dark, copper color.

Redfish feed in very shallow water -- often less than a foot deep. This makes them an ideal quarry for sight fishing.

Redfish visit the flats in search of food. Grass flats with intermixed areas of sand or mud bottom are ideal for sight fishing. The fish are often seen along the edge of the sea grass, or on the sand or mud bottom. Under clear-water conditions, with good light, redfish can been seen moving slowly across grass-covered flats. It is not uncommon to see a pod of three or more fish. It is also not uncommon to encounter a large school of fish cruising rapidly across a flat. Single fish often follow large rays. In extremely shallow water (less than 12-inches) it is not uncommon to see the fish’s tail break the surface as they nose around the bottom in search of food. In some instances, when the fish are not actively feeding, they will layup on sand-bottom areas or in the edges of a weed line along the shore.

Shorelines that hold extensive weeds (Spartina grass) attract the fish, especially at high tide, presumably because the smaller, bait fish seek cover in the weeds. Under these conditions, the redfish are generally found along the edges of the weed beds. However, it is not uncommon to see a redfish back among the weeds, especially during a high tide of the type that accompanies a full moon.

Fish that are feeding move along at a slow, leisurely pace, but can move swiftly in pursuit of prey. If a fish is moving away from you in shallow water fast enough to show a continuous bow wave, the chances are that you have spooked the fish. Spooked fish will not take a bait.

When feeding, the fish nose around the bottom attempting to locate crabs and other crustaceans. Occassionally, the tail of a redfish feeding in shallow water will break the surface. Such a "tailing" redfish is definitely searching for food, thus making a great target. When feeding in such a fashion, schools of fish tend to break up and spread individually across a flat. The fish will tend to be facing into the current whether the current is caused by wind or by tide or by a combination of both.

Tidal and Temperature Effects

Tide and temperature are important factors that bring fish into the shallow water in search of food.

The most important tidal feature is movement of the water -- due either to a falling tide or a rising tide. The primary effect of tidal height is to determine the distance the redfish are found from shore. During a rising tide, the fish begin working their way toward the shallow, shoreline areas along the margin of the bay. At high tide, the redfish have access to the weeded areas along the shoreline, and to shallow flats. A falling tide tends to wash small bait fish and crustaceans out of the weeds and the sea grass. In general, the lower the tide, the farther from the shoreline that the fish will be found. Regardless of tide, the fish will tend to move into as shallow water as possible in search of food. Time of the day is not an important factor.

In general, the best fishing occurs on a falling tide. The essential feature is that there be some water movement associated with tidal phase, either rising or falling. At peak high tide or dead low tid, the fish seem to prefer to layup either in the grass along the edge of the shorelint (high tide) or in sand holes (low tide).

During the summer months the water temperature on the flats may be fairly uniform in the 70's and 80's. In mid-summer (July and August) the water temperature on the shallow flats can easily reach the low 90's. This high temperature results in very low oxygen content. As a result, fish may not found on the flats where the temperature exceeds 90 degrees. Fish remain on the flats until the water temperature in the fall drops into the mid-50s. When the water temperature falls to about 55°, the fish tend to move off the flats in search of warmer water. However, on sunny winter days, the fish will move out onto the flats even though the water temperature may be in the mid-50s. On sunny, winter days the best concentration of fish is found on the flats shortly after mid-day.

Shallow flats with grass or mud covered bottoms often hold fish. Many flats will be found which consistently hold fish. However, not all flats hold fish. The question is, "What are the factors that cause fish to congregate in certain areas?" Obviously, the availability of food is the primary reason. In addition, water temperature and tide also have an effect. The fish feed most actively during the time the tide is moving -- either rising or falling.

Shallow flats and bays are always good places to look for redfish. Shallow flats consisting of sand or mud bottom, with Spartina grass located along the shoreline are usually productive areas.Watch for pushes, nervous water, tailing fish and flashes.

What To Look For

The most enjoyable fishing occurs when the water conditions, tide, wind and sunlight are such that it is possible to actually see the fish. Near mid-day, with a clear sky, the fish can be seen at considerable distances. Redfish have a distinct shape that, with a little practice, is easily distinguishable from other fish. Over a bottom that is covered with seagrass, the fish appear as a shade of dark purple with a red or pink hue. Their fins and tails are often a light rust or light orange color that contrasts well with the seagrass.

It is essential to look into the water, not at the surface, and scan the bottom, looking for motion across the bottom, or for fish-shaped objects in the water column. Over sand or mud bottom, the visibility of the fish is enhanced by the fish's shadow on the bottom. Under really good conditions, the fish can be sighted at distances that are considerably greater than can be reached with light-weight spinning tackle. Under such conditions, patience becomes of paramount importance to ensure that you are able to place the lure near the fish on the first cast. Patience becomes even more of an imperative when fly fishing.

When water or light conditions are not amenable to sight fishing for cruising fish, it is more likely that a "push" or "nervous water" will be the only indicator of the presence of a fish or a school of fish. When conditions are such that a push or nervous water are the only visible clues, be aware that many of the surface disturbances in shallow water are caused by mullet. In general, the mullet announce their presence by frequent jumps. However, when a push or nervous water cannot definitely be attributed to a mullet, and the fish cannot be visibly sighted, it is best to make a cast into the vicinity of the disturbed water. One distinguishing behavior is that mullet are seldom seen on large sand or mud flats. They prefer the grass-covered areas. Thus, a push or nervous water sighted over a sand- or mud-bottom area that contains no seagrass is more likely to be caused by a redfish.

Always scan the surface for evidence of the presence of fish. Even under clear water conditions, the "push" or "nervous water" will be the first indicator of the presence of fish, and can be sighted before the fish is visually acquired. Occasionally, the tail of redfish feeding in shallow water will break the surface. A "tailing" redfish is definitely searching for food, thus making a great target. Always, try to determine the direction the fish is moving and place the lure or live bait a few feet in front of the fish.

Redfish often follow large rays. The fish feed on small shrimp and crabs that are stirred up by the movement of the rays. The rays can easily be spotted at considerable distance. A tell-tale sign of a ray is the flash of white associated with the underside of the wing as they wander across the flats. In shallow water, the tips of the ray’s wings will often break the surface of the water. It is not uncommon to see as many as three redfish trailing a large ray. Try to place the bait very near to, or even on top of, the ray.

Three things are absolute necessities when stalking redfish -- patience, polarized sunshades, and a wide brim hat. Good casting skills are also required when sight fishing.

What To Fish With

Light-weight spinning tackle, loaded with either 8#- or 10#-test line, is adequate for fishing for redfish in the shallows. An especially effective artificial bait is a small, gold spoon tipped with a colored tail (usually green and pink). The spoon should be retrieved very slowly so that it wobbles along the sand bottom or along the top of the sea grass. A slow retrieve also lessens the twisting effect of the spoon on the mono-filament line. For flats fishing, the 8#-test line is ideal. It is necessary to use a short leader, preferably 25#-test. The best method to construct the leader is to tie a Bimini twist in the 8-# test, and then attach the 25-# leader with a surgeon knot. The leader should be about 12-inches long. This same arrangement can be used for fishing top-water baits when conditions are not suitable for sight fishing.

Live shrimp are a very effective bait. The shrimp should be rigged "Keys-style" so that they are weedless. (See illustration). To rig a shrimp in this fashion, pinch off the fan tail. Bring the hook in through the end of the tail, then rotate the hook such that the barb can be buried in the shrimp’s main body. This makes the shrimp weedless. A small, split-shot, lead sinker can be clipped to the line immediately above the knot. The lead sinker adds weight for casting, and ensures that the shrimp sinks at a reasonable rate. In addition, the weight of the split-shot helps to ensure that the shrimp is resting tail-first on the bottom, thus enhancing the chances that the fish will readily see it. If live shrimp are not available, dead shrimp rigged in the same manner are also effective.

Sight Fishing Technique

A shallow-draft flats-boat -- equipped with a rear poling platform -- is essential for sight fishing for redfish in shallow water. The following tips are derived from experience with a Dolphin Super Skiff, but are applicable to any similarly equipped boat. 

Pole slowly with the sun at your back. Look into the water, not at the surface, and try to pick up the motion of the fish across the bottom. The fish will have a distinctly different color, usually a deep purple or reddish hue, from the bottom depending on orientation and degree of sunlight. Fins and tail often show as flashes of pink color.

Do not throw directly on top of the fish. Try to determine the direction the fish is headed, and place the lure, live bait or fly a few feet beyond and in front of the fish. Make the bait enter the water as quietly as possible. If the fish is moving toward you, place your bait several feet ahead of the fish and directly in his projected path, or place the bait just beyoun the fish and off to one side so that the bait can be retrieved such that it comes to the fish about two feet to the side. If the fish is moving perpendicular to you, cast beyound the fish such that your retrieve brings the bait across the fish's path a few feet in front of him. If the fish is facing directly away from you, place the bait so that it comes by about three feet from the fish. If the bait comes at the fish head on, the fish will almost certainly be spooked. When your cast does land on top of the fish, let the bait sit still for a few seconds. The fish will immediately dart away, but often will turn around and come back to investigate. When the fish turns back, begin working the bait slowly to attract his attention. If fishing with live bait, simply let the bait sit still once it is positioned in front of the fish.

Placement of a fly is more difficult than placement of a gold spoon or live bait with a spinning rod, mainly because with a fly rod it is important that only the clear leader fall on the water in the immediate vicinity of the fish. If the main fly line falls on, or very near to the fish, the fish will almost certainly spook.

Sight fishing with a fly rod is almost always a two-person operation -- one person poling the boat and the other fishing. The person on the poling platform will most likely be the first to spot a fish. Use the "clock-system", together with an indication of the distance of the fish from the boat, to communicate the fish’s location to the person fishing from the bow. (For example, a fish location would be called out as "10:30 at 40 feet.") The "clock-system" is also an effective approach when spin-cast fishing.

When sight fishing alone, and poling the boat, the most difficult procedure is to quickly store the pole and pick up a rod when a fish is sighted. I devised a system with two pole holders -- one I wear on my belt, and a second pole holder is mounted in a rod holder on the poling platform such that the holder is about waist high. When a fish is spotted, I snap the pole into the holder on my belt, pick up the rod and make a cast. If I hook a fish, I then move the pole from the holder on my belt to the second pole holder mounted on the rod holder. This requires a lot of practice. The use of the pole holder is essential. If you take your eye off a cruising fish to store the pole or to pick up a rod, the chances are that you will have difficulty in visually sighting the fish a second time. All of the motion associated with storing the pole on the pole holder and picking up the rod must be done smoothly without a lot of jerky movements.

Sight fishing alone with a fly rod requires much practice to be effective. One of the primary problems consists of line management when standing on the poling platform. To help with line management, use a stripping basket mounted to the poling platform. Much practice will be required to become proficient at keeping the fly rod ready to cast while at the same time poling the boat. An effective technique is to locate an area where the wind and sun location is such that the boat can drift down wind backwards and the sun is located behind you.

In the shallow water, particularly when blind casting, and even when sight fishing, you will often see a swirl as the fish turns to pick up the lure. Do NOT react to the swirl -- you will snatch the lure or fly away from the fish before he picks it up. Wait until you actually feel the fish take the lure before you set the hook. With redfish, it is not necessary to set the hook hard -- the fish strike hard and will do all the work for you if you let him.

Rigging For Redfish

Spin Cast Tackle

Lightweight tackle is sufficient when fishing for redfish in shallow water. A medium-action rod with an open-face reel capable of holding 150-yards of 8#- or 10#-test line is recommended. A leader of 25#-test mono-filament is also necessary. To rig for redfish, proceed as follows:

If fishing with live shrimp, tie a #2 hook to the leader using an Improved Clinch Knot. A small, split-shot, lead sinker can be attached to the line directly above the clinch knot to add additional weight, and to ensure that the shrimp sinks rapidly. Live shrimp are best rigged "Keys style" to make them weedless.

Fly Rod Tackle

A 7- to 9-weight fly rod with a large arbor reel loaded with a weight-forward, floating line -- and a hundred yards of 20# backing -- is sufficient for fishing for redfish. The mono-filament leader (tapered) should be at least 9-feet in length. The leader and shock tippet should be rigged as follows:

1. Tie a short Butt Section of 40# mono-filament to the end of the fly line using a Nail Knot. The Butt Section should be at least 12-inches in length. Tie a Perfection Loop in the end of the Butt Section.
2. Prepare a tapered leader (30#-20#-15#-12#). The leader sections can be tied together using a Surgeon Knot. Ensure that the 30# section begins with a Perfection Loop.
3. Tie a shock tippet (12-15 inches; 25# test) to the end of the 12# section using a Surgeon Knot. (An alternative is to tie a Perfection Loop in the end of the 12# section and then use the Loop-to-Loop system to attach the shock tippet.)
4. Once the leader has been prepared, attach it to the Butt Section using the Loop-to-Loop system
5. Tie the fly to the shock tippet using either an Improved Clinch Knot, a Non-slid Mono Knot or a Duncan Loop.

A Couple of Tactics That Work

When fishing in shallow water, pole the boat slowly, keeping boat noise, and motion atop the poling platform, to a minimum.

In calm water, and with a high tide, slow poling about 40-feet from shore and looking toward shore is a good technique, particularly if the water is such that you have limited visibility. The bottom along the shoreline generally tends to be sand, and cruising fish can be spotted relatively easily.

Under certain conditions, such as when it is windy and difficult to control the flats boat, it is possible to anchor, or to stake out, the boat with the sun to your back such that you are overlooking a sandy flat. Under these conditions, fish cruising the flat will become visible as they cross the sand-bottom areas. A variant of this technique is to ground the boat in a weed bed in such a position that you can overlook a sandbar extending from the shoreline out into the water. Fish cruising across the sand bar will be readily visible. Very often these fish will be only a few feet from the edge of the weeds.

Boat Handling Tips

The following tips are derived from experience with a Dolphin Super Skiff, but are applicable to any similarly equipped flats boat.

When possible, drift with the wind at your back. Under the right conditions, the boat will drift downwind sideways with little effort required to keep it aligned perpendicular to the breeze. This will allow you to get closer before the fish spots the boat. I like to start poling 40- or 50-yards offshore and pole toward the shore at a slight angle. When the shallow water near the shore is reached, I reverse directions and begin moving away from the shore, all the while keeping a component of my motion moving parallel to the shore. This results in a saw-tooth track that allows you to cover a considerable area until you determine just how far the fish are from the shore.

A lot of motion by the person on the platform will spook the fish. Keep motion to a minimum, and keep it quiet. Redfishs are easily spooked by the motion associated with a person moving around high up on the poling platform. It is best to have a partner on the front of the boat that can cast from a lower position, using the directions provided by the person on the poling platform. When a fish, especially a cruising fish, is first sighted very near to the boat, it is sometimes best to remain motionless and wait until the fish moves away from the boat before attempting to make a cast.

The combination of the poling platform and the person standing on the platform will catch a lot of wind. Under windy conditions, keeping the boat moving in a straight line requires a lot of work involving frequent pushes with the pole. Use foot position on the platform to orient the pole correctly to control boat direction -- this prevents having to constantly pick the pole up to switch sides. For example, pole over your right hip. When it is necessary to plant the pole on the left side of the boat, shift your feet on the platform so that you face the right side of the boat with the pole still on the right hip.

It is often possible to use a trolling motor when fishing for redfish. A trolling motor is essential when fishing in water depths greater than about 3-feet. A trolling motor is also useful when blind fishing the edge of a weed line when conditions do not allow sight fishing.

Before starting the engine, ALWAYS make a visual check to ensure all hatches are closed, the pole is properly stowed, and that no equipment is left on the flat deck or the poling platform. When fishing alone, a life-vest should be worn when making runs across the Bay; and the kill-switch should be utilized.

Summary

The three primary variables that determine success in fishing the shallows for redfish are:

-- Location
-- Tidal movement
-- Water Temperature

Some shallow flats will hold fish on an almost continuous basis once the water temperature is sufficient, and the food supply remains in the area. The most important factor relative to tide is that there be some water movement -- either rising or falling. The primary effect of tide level is to determine how far the fish are found from shore. During the summer months, the water temperature is usually in the mid- to upper 80s. As the weather begins to cool in late fall and early winter, water temperature becomes an important factor as the fish move to areas with the warmest water temperature.

It is recommended that a catch-and-release approach be used when fishing for redfish. Practicing catch-and-release will ensure that the fishery remains healthy.